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Sunday, October 18, 2020

2020 Oak Preparation

I use quite a bit of oak in my aged homebrew.  I sometimes use plain, toasted, but most often will soak it in a wine or spirit first in order to both condition the wood (leach out some of the tannins) and to impart extra flavor to the beer.  I had initially been purchasing small, toasted, oak cubes from the Homebrew Store for this but I recently found that purchasing White Oak lumber and preparing it myself is both cheaper and provides a better customizable product (like being able to decide the size)

I've typically been producing small amounts on an as-needed basis which often didn't allow for a very long soak time.  I think a longer soak time could result in better absorption of the wine or spirit into the wood and get me more flavor.  So, I'd decided to prepare a lot of oak all at once for use over the next year with Sour Beer, Raspberry Wine, and bulk aged English Barleywine and Russian Imperial Stouts

This post will document my approach for making this oak

Whiskey Oak Preparation Steps:

  • First I left the American white oak lumber outside on the roof of my shed to be exposed to the weather for a year.  The rain, snow, sunshine, cold and warm weather result in the wood becoming seasoned.  This should result in some reduction of tannin in the wood which makes for a smoother character when aged with barrel strength spirit
  • At the end of the aging the wood had a dark layer on the outside
  • I cut the seasoned wood into 1x1x6 inch chunks using a table saw.  I slice off the outer layer once cut to rough shape
  • I then toasted the oak in the oven at 375 F for 4 hrs.  The oak creates a wonderful vanilla, caramel, and toasted aroma - it's very much like a bakery smell

Toasted vs untoasted oak color
  • After letting the oak cool I then char it over my propane burner until a good alligator char is achieved
Sprayed with water to put them out - this also caused additional cracks in the char

Example of char depth (from a stick made earlier this year)
  • I then rinsed the charred oak with water for several minutes to clean any dirt or lose char off as well as to cool it
  • Then I mixed up a 63% spirit using spring water and Everclear and add it to half gallon mason jars with 3 sticks of oak each.  This is 3x the amount of oak the equivalent amount of spirit would be in contact with in a real barrel which makes a much more oaky "whiskey" than the real thing.  It is still drinkable at this level of oaking.  This will be one potential area of difference when using the oak for beer ageing
  • The jars are moved up to the non-climate controlled attic where they'll be exposed to wide temperature variation over the next year.  This will drive the whiskey in and out of the oak which will cause oak flavor to infuse the spirit and cause the wood to become saturated with alcohol


Wine Oak Preparation Steps:
  • For my wine oaks I'v'e used unseasoned oak as I think the tannins are potentially more benefit to the beers I'll be using these in
  • I cut these sticks into 0.75x0.75x4 and 0.75x0.75x6 inch strips.  These are smaller to fit through the neck of a glass carboy
  • I toasted these in the oven for 4 hrs.  Some were toasted at 350 F and some at 375 F
  • I put 10 sticks of 375 F toast oak at 0.75x0.75x4 into a 1 quart mason jar with Port.  This should leave just enough room to allow for expansion of the wood once liquid is absorbed but still get them out
  • I used a half gallon mason jar to age the oak with Cabernet Sauvignon wine.  These are 6 inch pieces.  Most are about 3/4 an inch but there are some smaller ones.  Probably have 15 jammed in the jar.  These were toasted at 350 F
  • I setup 10 sticks of 350 F Toast 0.75x0.75x4 oak in a 1 quart mason jar with Brandy
  • I put 18 0.75x0.75x6 375 F toast in a half gal mason jar with Chardonnay

Sunday, October 11, 2020

Saison Take 4

I now have 4 kegs to play with.  So far, I've got a hoppy pale ale in one and Porter fermenting which will go in the second.  I've decided a Belgian style with a flavorful yeast would be a nice beer to have on tap.  So, I've decided to brew up a Saison which will be my fourth attempt at the style (read about the first, second, and third).  It is a style of beer that is characterized by spicy yeast character and a dry finish.  Uniquely for any style I'm aware of, they're allowed to be either bitter or sour and funky.

With this beer, I'll be making a hoppy version.  I'll be using Wyeast 3724 which is reputed to be the Saison Dupont strain.  This yeast is reported to be very finicky with a propensity to stall at around 1.030 and then require warm fermentation temperatures to finish out.  If treated correctly, this yeast should be able to take the beer down to close to 1.000.  I'd used it once before but opted to pitch other microbes to drive fermentation to completion rather than fight with the Saison yeast.  The yeast character of Dupont is really wonderful though so I think it's worth some extra effort to get it.

I'll be fermenting with a reptile heater in the fermentation chamber to drive it into the mid-80s.  I'd expect to have to give it 6 weeks or more to complete.

For my malt bill I decided to use some raw wheat in addition to pilsner malt.  This will comprise about 25% of the grain.  I hope it adds a bit of complexity to the package.  It'll require a cereal mash to extract the sugars.  No specialty malts in this batch so a relatively simple grainbill.  I'm going to try to bring the beer in at around 5-6% ABV (like Dupont).

I have a lot of hops on hand but no traditional European hops.  I decided to try out a variety that is new to me for this one:  Legacy.  The reports are mixed on these (some report citrus character, some herbal and earthy like an English hop, while the description on Hops Direct says they have a black currant character.  The hops themselves smell nice but I'm not picking anything that reminds me of black currant.  Not sure how well this will work in a Saison but I don't think it's a big stretch to think it will make a drinkable beer.  I'll go with a bittering charge to ~30 IBU and an ounce or flavoring at the end of the boil.

This will be a long process.  Hopefully fermentation will proceed nicely without any need for action on my part.  I feel like my patience for fermentation hasn't been very good lately - I'll need to focus on relaxing and not putting the beer at risk though excessive action

Recipe Details:

  • Grain:
    • 7 lb Pilsner
    • 3 oz Acid
    • Cereal Mash
      • 3 lb Raw Wheat
      • 1 lb Pilsner
  • Hops:
    • 1 oz Legacy (Leaf, 8.1% AA) at 90 min
    • 1 oz Legacy (Leaf, 8.1% AA) at 5 min
  • Yeast:
    • Wyeast 3724 Belgian Saison
  • Water:
    • 10 gal Spring Water
    • 1 tsp CaCl
    • 1 tsp Gypsum
    • 1 tsp Irish Moss at 15 min

Process Details:
  • Batch Size:
    • 5.75 gal (Target 6 gal)
  • Mash:
    • Cereal Mash:
      • Step 1:  Soak in 120 F water for 20 min
      • Step 2:  Raise to 155 F and Rest for 20 min
      • Step 3:  Boil for 20 min
    • Main Mash:
      • 150 F for 60 min
  • Boil:
    • 90 min
  • Fermentation Temperature:
    • Pitch at 68 F and let rise naturally
    • Ramp the temperature up to 85 F over the first week and hold
  • Primary Duration:
    • 6 weeks
  • Secondary Duration:
    • NA

Results:
  • OG:
    • 1.054 (Target 1.050)
  • Efficiency:
    • 77% (Target 74%)
  • FG:
    • 1.002 (Target 1.004)
  • Apparent Attenuation:
    • 96% (Target 92%)
  • ABV:
    • 6.8% (Target 6.0%)

Brewing Notes:
  • 10/10/20 - Made a 1 litre starter using 100 g of DME and set it up on a stir plate over night
  • 10/11/20  - Brewday - 8:45 AM to 3:00 PM- Including setup and cleanup
    • Cereal Mash:
      • Heated 3 gal of spring water up to 125 F
      • Stirred in my grain and let it sit for 20 min
      • Heated up to 155 F and let rest for 20 more min
      • Brought the mash to a boil and held for 20 min
      • Let the cereal mash cool while preparing the main mash
    • Heated 8 gal of sparge water to 170 F
    • Milled my grain (added CaCl and Gypsum to it)
      • I had double milled the raw wheat for the cereal mash earlier
    • Moved 4 gal to the mash tun and cycled through the RIMS at 155 F
    • Stopped the RIMS and added the main mash grain.  Let this sit for 10 min.  Temperature settled to 146 F
    • Cereal mash had only cooled to 190 F.  I added enough cool spring water to bring it down to 160 F
    • Added the cereal mash to the mash tun - stirred this into the other grain.  Let it sit for 10 min.  Temperature had settled to 150 F.
    • Cycled the RIMS at 152 F which keeps the mash at 150 F.  Cycle for 60 min\
    • Heated 5 gal of sparge water to 180 F
    • Drained the whole mash tun into the boil kettle as a batch sparge.  Started heating after collecting about 4 gal.  Collected about 5 gal in this first sparge.  The wort started pretty clear but I carried quiet a lot of particulate into the boil kettle with this method
    • Added the full 5 gal of sparge water to the mash tun.  Stirred it into all the grain and let sit for 10 min to settle.
    • Added the bittering hops once the boil started
    • Drained the second batch sparge into the boil kettle - did this slowly so the boil wasn't interrupted.
    • Boiled for 90 min
    • With 15 min left I added Irish Moss
    • At 5 min I added flavoring hops and the wort chiller to sanitize
    • At flameout I chilled down to 80 F
    • Drained into my fermenter.  Let it fall a couple feet to aerate
    • Measured the gravity as 1.054 and the volume as 5.75 gal.  Decided to leave it as is.
    • Moved to the fermentation chamber to chill down to 68 F before pitching the yeast
    • Pitched the yeast.  Turned off temperature control and added a reptile heater to keep things warm
  • 10/12/20 - The fermenter is bubbling and sitting at 73 F today
  • 10/14/20 - I added a second heating pad to the chest freezer last night.  The fermenter is up to 76 F this morning and it's still bubbling.
  • 10/18/20 - The fermenter has been sitting at 81 F for the last few days.  The airlock is still bubbling fairly frequently
  • 10/22/20 - Got too curious to wait.  Measured the gravity as 1.010.  The beer is still bubbling a little bit and holding at 80 F.  Happy to see I don't have a stuck fermentation at least
  • 11/1/20 -  The beer bubbled for most of this last week.  This has mostly stopped.  Moved the beer out of the chest freezer to the basement in the low 60s to make room for my next beer.
  • 11/14/20 - Measured the gravity again - it's down to 1.004.  It has a nice fruity and spicy yeast character and a bitter finish.  It's cloudy still.  I will cold crash and fine with gelatin this week.
  • 11/19/20 - Moved to the chest freezer to cold crash down to 36 F
  • 11/20/20 - Added gelatin to clear the beer
  • 11/21/20 - Transferred to a keg purged with CO2 and set it up to carbonate at 13 PSI.  Measured the gravity one final time and found it was 1.002.  Got a couple more pints than could fit in the keg which I was more than happy to dispose of (down the gullet of course)- it is a very tasty beer.
  • 12/31/20 - Tasting Notes - This is boldly flavored beer and is quite refreshing with the dry and bitter finish.  I really enjoy the ester profile.  From memory, I think this is very much like how Saison Dupont tastes (will test that next).  It hides it's almost 7% ABV very well - would not guess it is that high from drinking it (but you do feel it the next morning which is my only qualm with this beer)
  • 5/27/21 - Kicked this keg.  It lasted a long time because it was too strong for me to drink a large portion.  I'll miss it for sure.

Monday, September 28, 2020

English Porter

It has been quite a while since I last brewed a Porter/Stout that wasn't an Imperial Strength.  These are very drinkable beers with a lot of complexity and bold flavor.  Now that I've started kegging I think I should have at least one on tap. 

For a recipe, I decided to try out a 1915 version of Porter from the Courage Brewery as published on the Shut Up About Barclay Perkins blog.  I've brewed a few of these old English recipes at this point and this, like many of them, gets quite a bit of their fermentables out of invert syrup.  This recipe calls for a #4 invert (I had previously thought #3 was the darkest) which is cooked until it reaches a black (or at least very dark brown) color.  I found this intriguing and wanted to give it a shot.

Otherwise, it's a pretty simple recipe with 3 grains (pale, brown, and black malt).  I'm using American Pale ale malt for this.  It's mashed in the low 150 Fs but then is projected to only reach 1.018.  Target OG is 1.050 so it would be expected to be about 4% ABV - nice and drinkable.

For hops it calls for Fuggle.  I don't have any of those so I'm swapping out Willamette (which I recently purchased a pound of).  Willamette are frequently called out as a good substitute for Fuggle as they were bred from Fuggle originally.

For yeast, it calls for the Whitbread Brewery's house yeast which Safale S04 dry yeast is though to be an isolate from.  This yeast produces a pleasant ester character.  Been a while since I used it but will be nice to revisit.

Recipe Details:

  • Grain/Adjunct:
    • 7 lb Pale Ale Malt
    • 2.25 lb Brown Malt
    • 1 lb Black Malt
    • 1.5 lb Invert #4
  • Hops:
    • 2 oz Willamette (Leaf, 5.7% AA) at 90 min
    • 1 oz Willamette (Leaf, 5.7% AA) at 50 min
  • Yeast:
    • Safale S-04 - English Ale Yeast (Whitbread strain)
  • Water:
    • 10 gal spring water
    • 2 gal tap water
    • 1 tsp Citric Acid
    • 1 tsp CaCl
    • 1 tsp Gypsum
    • 1 tsp Irish Moss

Process Details:
  • Batch Size:
    • 6 gal (Target 6 gal)
  • Mash:
    • 148 F for 60 min
  • Boil:
    • 90 min
  • Fermentation Temperature:
    • 68 F
  • Primary Duration:
    • 4 weeks
  • Secondary Duration:
    • NA

Results:
  • OG:
    • 1.055 (Target 1.050)
  • Efficiency:
    • 76% (Target 68%)
  • FG:
    • 1.018 (Target 1.018)
  • Apparent Attenuation:
    • 66% (Target 63%)
  • ABV:
    • 4.9% (Target 4.2%)


Brewing Notes:

  • 9/26/20 - Made up about 1.5 lb of Invert #4.  I'd made #3 before which is a dark brown.  Apparently Invert #4 is cooked just up to the edge of being burnt and should be a fairly black color. 
    • Used a 1.5 lb bag of Demerara sugar, 2 cups of spring water, and 1/4 tsp of Citric Acid
    • Heated it on medium low for about 8 hr until it was basically black.  It has a slight bitter flavor along with dark fruit and caramel.  I pulled it before there was any sign of smoke - probably could have gone a bit longer.  My thermometer finally gave up today so no temperature reading to aid me
  • 9/27/20 - Brewday - 11:50 AM to 4:15 PM - Including setup and cleanup
    • Heated 5 gal of spring water and 2 gal of tap water up to 170 F
    • Milled my grain.  Added the gypsum, CaCl, and Citric Acid (to try to compensate for no Acid malt) to the grain after milling
    • Moved 5 gal of water to the mash tun and then cycled this through the RIMS and grant until the system settled at 160 F
    • Stirred in the grain
    • Let the mash settle for 10 min.  Cycled the RIMS at 150 F for 50 min.
    • Brought 7 gal of water up to 180 F for the sparge
    • Fly sparged until 9 gal had been collected
    • Started to heat the wort at 4 gal and had at a boil before sparging ended
    • Added the bittering hops
    • The invert sugar had solidified into a soft mass.  Over the first 15 min of the boil I transferred boiling wort onto the sugar, dissolved a bit at a time, and poured that into the kettle.
    • Added the 30 min hops
    • Rehydrated my yeast in some room temperature spring water.  Lots of signs of activity 20 min later
    • Added the Irish moss at 10 min
    • At the scheduled end of the boil I found we were still at about 7 gal.  Extended the boil to be 90 min
    • With 5 min left I added the wort chiller to sanitize.  Removed the bags of hops first
    • Chilled the beer to 80 F
    • Transferred into a bucket fermenter.  Let the beer fall a couple feet to aerate.  Pitched the yeast during this transfer
    • Measured the gravity as 1.055
    • Collected 6 gal of wort
    • Moved this to the chest freezer to cool down to the desired starting fermentation temperature.  The freezer is currently cold crashing another beer so just left it in for a couple hrs and then move to ambient basement temperatures.
  • 9/28/20 - The airlock is bubbling vigorously today and there is a thick layer of krausen on the beer.
  • 10/23/20 - Transferred to a keg today and set it up to carbonate at 12 PSI.  Measured gravity as 1.018.  Had an extra quart which I'll drink now
  • 11/22/20 - Tasting Notes - I really enjoy a roasty flavored beer and this is a very enjoyable one.  It think the balance of this recipe is quite nice - has a small bit of sweetness that prevents the roast and hop bitterness from becoming abrasive but is by no means a sweet beer.  Makes for very good drinkability.  There isn't anything extraordinary about the beer but it is boldly flavored and offers a good amount of complexity to go along with it's drinkability (quite a bit like a Guinness I would say).
  • 12/8/20 - The keg has been kicked.  Sorry to see it go.  Was a very good beer.

Saturday, September 26, 2020

Flanders Red 6.1.1 and 7.1.1

My final step for this year's Flanders Red Project is filling 2 fermenters which I emptied during my blending sessions.  

I have quite a bit of diversity in my fermenters with Commercial Blends (Wyeast Roeselare, Yeast Bay's Mélange, and East Coast Yeast Flemish Ale Blend) as well as a couple with yeast captured from other beers (Rodenbach Foederbier and one with a mix of Jolly Pumpkin, Lost Abby, and Russian River dregs).  This is a good thing for blending as you have a lot of flavors to choose from.  

I've brewed the most beers with Roeselare which produces really nice flavors but can produce a fairly mild beer.  The two I emptied (by distributing the remaining beers to other fermenters) were of the fairly mild variety.  To fill these, I'll seek to add a bit more bio-diversity to the mix by using a couple blends by a fairly new Yeast Provider:  GigaYeast.  One is a Brett Brux blend (GB 156) and other is a Brett and Lacto blend (GB 150).

I'm going to product a double batch of beer which should be close to 12 gal for this.  I'll try to bring them in at around 1.055 since these typically end up fermenting down to close to 1.000 which is a bit stronger than I'd like.  I also plan to hop this batch to 28 IBU to try to reign in the lacto a bit as my collection of beers is plenty sour already.  I'm thinking I'd like Fruity and Earthy flavors out of these new beers rather than more acid.

I'll give them about 4 weeks to ferment out with airlocks before I move them to secondary.  Flanders Red 6.1.1 will primary in a bucket and will be transferred into a glass carboy for secondary (along with a lot of the yeast cake) - this is Fermenter #2.  Flanders Red 7.1.1 is fermenting in a bucket which is my Fermenter #7.  I cleaned out all the previous batch of beer from Fermenter #7 and sanitized.  I did not clean Fermenter #2 and don't intend to if the small amount of dregs in it look/smell okay (as they did when I checked today)


Recipe Details:
  • Grain/Adjunct:
    • 9 lb Pilsner Malt
    • 9 lb Pale Ale Malt
    • 2 lb Flaked Corn
    • 1.5 lb Aromatic Malt
    • 1.5 lb Crystal 60 L
    • 1.5 lb Special B
    • 3 oz Acid Malt
  • Hops:
    • 2 oz Cluster (Leaf, 8.1% AA) at 60 min
  • Yeast:
  • Water:
    • 12 gal Spring Water
    • 5 gal Tap Water
    • 2 tsp CaCl
    • 2 tsp Gypsum
    • 1 tsp Irish Moss

Process Details:
  • Batch Size:
    • 11 gal (Target 12 gal)
  • Mash:
    • 160 F for 60 min
  • Boil:
    • 70 min (Target 60 min)
  • Fermentation Temperature:
    • ~70 F (Ambient Basement Temps
  • Primary Duration:
    • 4 weeks
  • Secondary Duration:
    • 1-3+ Years

Results:
  • OG:
    • 1.060 (Target 1.055)
  • Efficiency:
    • 74% (Target 73%)
  • FG:
    • 1.001 
  • Apparent Attenuation:
    • 100%
  • ABV:
    • 7.88%

Brewing Notes:
  • 9/25/20 - Brewday - 1:30 PM to 5:30 PM- Including setup and cleanup
    • Brought 7 gal of spring water up to 180 F
    • Added 6 gal of water to the mash tun and cycled until the system was at 170 F
    • Milled my grain.  Added the CaCl and Gypsum to the mix
    • Stopped the RIMS and stirred in the grain.  Mixed well to eliminate doughballs.  Added a couple more quarts of water to the top of the mash.  Let the mash settle for 10 min.  Started the RIMS again and cycled at 160 F.
    • Heated up 10 gal of sparge water to 180 F
    • Performed a fly sparge until about 8 gal had been collected
    • Heated the wort after collecting about 4 gal.  Had it at a boil shortly after collecting 8 gal.
    • Added my bittering hops in 2 hop sacks
    • Filled the mash tun up with 180 F water for a second batch sparge.  Stirred this well and then let it settle for 10 min.
    • Drained the mash very slowly and added wort to the kettle through the remainder of the boil.  Chose a slow enough rate so that the boil didn't slow significantly
    • Added Irish Moss with about 15 min left
    • I ended up deciding to boil for an extra 10 min to get the last bit of wort from the mash tun into the kettle
    • With 5 min left I pulled out the hops - let these drain as much wort as possible
    • Added the wort chiller and let it sanitize by getting the beer back to a boil
    • Chilled the beer down to 80 F
    • Collected 9 gal.  Divided this evenly between the two fermenters.  Let the beer fall a foot or two to aerate
    • Measured gravity as 1.074.  I was going for a bit lower OG and bit more volume.  Decided to add a gal to each fermenter to get down to 1.060 and 5.5 gal in each fermenter
    • Pitched my yeast into each fermenter.  I'm using a temporary bucket for the 6.1.1 batch as it will go into my Flanders Red Fermenter #2 which is a glass carboy.  7.1.1 is in its permanent fermenter

  • 10/17/20 - The beers have been in the fermenter for 3 weeks now and seem to have stopped fermenting.  I'm transferring 6.1.1 to a glass carboy and setting up 7.1.1 with a vented silicon bung.  Took a gravity and flavor sample and found the following:
    • 6.1.1 - Fermented with GB 156 - Brett Brux Blend
      • The gravity for this one is at 1.006
      • It had a vigorous ferment that drove beer up through the airlock
      • The aroma is slightly fruity and malty
      • There is a lot of yeast still in suspension with this one
      • The flavor is primarily malty with a bit of bitterness.  No sourness to this and no real fruity character.  There may be some brett character though
    • 7.1.1 - Fermented with GB 150 - Sour Cherry Funk:
      • Fermented all the way to 1.000
      • Malty and slightly fruity aroma
      • This one is pretty much completely cleared 
      • Flavor is malty with a bit of bitterness.  Only a very slight fruity ester character.  No sourness
    • Added a toasted piece of oak that had soaked in red wine into Fermenter #2 with 6.1.1 and a stick soaked in Port in Fermenter #7 with 7.1.1

Saturday, September 19, 2020

Malt Vinegar

A couple months ago I made my first batch of Vinegar using homebrewed hard cider.  It turned out to be a relatively simple process and the results were pleasing enough to want to try it out again.  This time I'll be making a vinegar out of un-hopped beer - a Malt Vinegar.

I'm going to make a small batch of wort for this using just pale ale malt in my kitchen (shooting for something close to 1.5 quarts).  My cider was about 6% ABV and the final vinegar was acidic but not quite as acidic as a commercial version.  I'll aim for a 1.06 OG which, depending on attenuation, should get me a 7-8% ABV - will be interesting to see how the acidity level is with this much alcohol.  I'll ferment the wort with White Labs 099 - Super High Gravity yeast which I had available.  This yeast is a strong attenuator and produces a nice ester character which I think could make for an interesting dimension for a vinegar. 

Once fermented I'll move the beer off the yeast cake and pour aggressively to aerate.  I'll then transfer the mother culture off the Apple cider vinegar into the beer and give it a month or so to perform the conversion to acetic acid.

I plan to try some more experiments with Vinegar after this one is complete (beer or wine will most likely be next).

Brewing Notes:

  • 8/15/20 - Brew Day:
    • Made up a mash of 1 gal of water and 4 lb of pale ale malt in muslin bags (will use part of this as a starter for a beer)

    • Brought the wort to a boil for a few minutes
    • Chilled
    • The wort measured 1.092 SG
    • Transferred this to a large jar for fermentation.  Have 4 cups of wort.  Decided to water it down with 2 more cups of spring water which brings it to 1.059
    • Added a maybe 2 tsp of yeast to the wort
  • 8.19/20 - Fermentation seems to be about complete.  Solids are starting to settle out of the beer and sink to the bottom.  Left this in the kitchen and it was fun watching it bubble.  Was a pretty tame fermentation which didn't really form any krausen.  I'll give this another week to clear before I rack it off
  • 8/29/20 - Solids have mostly settled to the bottom.  I decanted the beer off the top of this into a new jar.  The beer had fermented all the way down to 1.000.  This is 7.7% ABV.  It's dry with a slight bit of malt flavor.  I then pulled the mother culture off the surface of my Apple cider vinegar and added it to the beer.  Put a rag over the mouth and screwed it on using the lid ring.  Will let this sit for a few weeks in the kitchen before giving it a first taste

Mother culture from Cider
  • 9/18/20 - The beer has gotten very dark over the last few weeks but hasn't formed a film yet.  I tasted it and it's got a very oxidized malt flavor.  No acidity has formed so far.  I decided to add 2 spoonful of the Bragg Apple cider vinegar to get it going.

  • 9/26/20 - Still no sign of a film forming after another week.  I'm thinking maybe the beer has enough carbonation left over that it's hindering the acetic acid microbes.  I attempted to de-gas the beer by transferring the contents of the jar back and forth to another container.  It did seem to be letting off a fair amount of carbonation at first which decreased significantly after 3 or 4 transfer cycles.  We'll see over the next week if this made any difference
  • 10/18/20 - The malt vinegar finally has formed a thin layer of film.  It has a sort of fruity/acetic aroma starting to become prominent.
  • 10/31/20 - I think this is just about done.  It has developed quite a bit of acidity (although it is still very mild compared with the Brag's Apple cider vinegar).  Has a mild but recognizable malt presence which is quite nice.  I'm going to move it into a swing top jar for keeping.  Will use the mother culture from this to make a new vinegar.
  • 11/26/20 - I've been using this on salad.  It is plenty acidic and I'm really enjoying it


Sunday, September 13, 2020

Rye Pale Ale Take II

 This week I'll be brewing up a low alcohol but aggressively hopped pale ale.  Up until now I've been restricted to bottling hoppy beers and, although I've made some nice ones, I've always been slightly disappointed with how quickly the hop aroma and flavor fades.  With the goal of doing better, I've finally bit the bullet and invested the $$$ and time into building a Chest Freezer based drought beer dispenser.  This will be my first beer using it.

I decided to play around with my own recipe for this beer.  I chose to use Rye malt in this beer in attempt to give the light malt bill a bit more interest.  I had used Rye in a pale ale once before to good effect.  Also added in a bit of Caramel Malt for color and hopefully to accentuate malt flavor a bit.  I'll be mashing pretty low (150 F) on this one as I'd like it to finish fairly dry.  My goal will be to bring this in at 1.045 and ferment down to around 1.012 for an ABV of around 4%.  Sometimes I'm tempted to go for a 3rd beer in the evening which should be just fine at such a low ABV (have to stop at 2 when drinking 6+% beers or I feel a bit ill the next morning).

I'll hop this beer with a combination of Cluster and some home grown Cascades a friend of mine gave me.  I got a 1 lb bag of Cluster from Hops Direct and thought they had a wonderfully bold herbal and pine character.  I'll use these for bittering and flame out.  I'm using the home grown cascades for late flavoring and then dry hops as they have a really lovely aroma (citrus and pine typical of Cascade).  I'll be using a total of 11 oz of hops in this beer:  2 oz bittering, 5 oz post boil for flavor, and then 4 oz of dry hop (first dose in fermenter and second dose in the keg).

I'll be using Wyeast 1028 London Ale with this batch as I had some in storage from recent beers.  This will be a fairly cheap beer to brew reusing yeast (on top of the light grainbill and bulk purchased/donated hops).

I'm really excited to be brewing my first keg beer.  I expect I'll be brewing a lot more sessionable hop focused beers going forward

Recipe Details:

  • Grain:
    • 6 lb 2 Row
    • 3 lb Rye Malt
    • 8 oz Crystal 20L
    • 8 oz Crystal 60 L
    • 3 oz Acid
  • Hops:
    • 2 oz Cluster (Leaf, 8.1% AA) at 60 min
    • 3 oz Cluster (Leaf, 8.1% AA) at 0 min
    • 2 oz Cascade (Home Grown Leaf) as Whirl Pool Hops
    • 2 oz Cascade (Home Grown Leaf) as Dry Hop
    • 2 oz Cascade (Home Grown Leaf) as Keg Hop
  • Yeast:
    • Wyeast 1028 London Ale Yeast (3rd Pitch)
  • Water:
    • 10 gal Spring Water
    • 5 gal Tap Water
    • 1 tsp CaCl
    • 1 tsp Gypsum

Process Details:
  • Batch Size:
    • 5.5 gal (Target 6 gal)
  • Mash:
    • 150 F for 60 min
  • Boil:
    • 70 min
  • Fermentation Temperature: 
    • 68 F
  • Primary Duration:
    • 3 weeks
  • Secondary Duration:
    • NA

Results:
  • OG:
    • 1.044 (Target 1.045)
  • Efficiency:
    • 65% (Target 72.8%)
  • FG:
    • 1.016 (Target 1.012)
  • Apparent Attenuation:
    • 63% (Target 73%)
  • ABV:
    • 3.68% (Target 4.33%)

Brewing Notes:
  • 9/7/20 - Brewday - 11:00 AM to 3:40 PM.  Including setup and cleanup
    • Brought 5 gal of spring water and 3 gal of tap water to 180 F
    • Milled my grain.  The rye is a smaller piece of grain so it didn't get quite as good a crush as the malted barley - hope this doesn't lead to terrible efficiency.  Added CaCl and Gypsum to the grain
Rye Malt
    • Added 5 gal of strike water to the mash tun and cycled through the RIMS until the system had settled to 162 F
    • Stopped the RIMS cycle and stirred in the grain.  Made sure to break up all dough balls
    • Let this settle for 10 min
    • Cycled through the RIMS at 152 for the remaining 50 min of the mash.  It settled to 150 F
    • Heated 8 gal of sparge water to 190 F
    • Performed a combo fly/batch sparge.  Collected 4-5 gal and drained the mash tun.  Then added more water to the mash tun to get back to 5 gal level and let this sit for 10 min (settled at 162 F.  Then drained this off, fly sparging with more water until I'd collected 8 gal.
    • Started heating the kettle at 4 gal.  Had the beer at a boil half way through the sparge.
    • Added the bittering hops once it was at a boil
    • Added irish moss at 15 min
    • With about 5 min left I was at a bit over 7 gal of wort.  Decided to extend the boil an extra 10 min
    • Took my yeast out of the fridge to warm to room temp.  This was a 1 pt jar of yeast slurry
    • Added the wort chiller to sanitize for the last 5 min of the boil
    • Added flameout hops
    • Chilled the beer down to 180 F and then added "whirlpool" hops.  Let the beer sit for 30 min cooling naturally.  It was down to 160 F by the end of this half hr.
    • Chilled down to the 80s
    • Transferred into my SS brewtech brew bucket.  Let the wort fall a foot or so to aerate
    • Collected 5.5 gal of wort
    • Measured the gravity as 1.044
    • Moved the beer to the fermentation chamber to chill down to 68 F
    • Pitched the yeast once it got down to fermentation temp
  • 9/9/20 - Still no signs of fermentation this morning (a good 36 hrs after pitching).  I decided to add a second pint jar of Wyeast 1028 slurry and move the beer out of the fermentation chamber to warm to basement temps (low-70s).  This yeast was slow starting with my English Barleywine as well.  Always frustrating when this happens but I think it's going to turn out just fine regardless of this slow start.
  • 9/10/20 - Airlock is bubbling rapidly today and krausen has formed on the beer.  It's producing an overripe fruit aroma on the fermentation that isn't pleasant.  Hope that flavor doesn't carry over.
  • 9/19/20 - Measured the gravity today as 1.018 - still bubbling a bit so I imagine it will come down a bit more  The beer has sort of an unusual mineral flavor and aroma with malt and hops in the background - maybe from the yeast.  Doesn't have the overripe fruit from fermentation.  I'm adding the first 2 oz of dry hop to the beer today.  I put these in two muslin sacks weighed down with stainless steel nuts and bolts.  Will leave this for a week while it finishes with fermentation
  • 9/24/20 - It has finally happened:  I have an infected beer.  
    • The beer has formed a bit of pellicle in the last 5 days.  The unusual mineral flavor and aroma has become a bit more prominent.  It reminds me quite a bit of Brett Claussenii which I used for the first time in a Berliner Weisse
    • I checked the gravity and it has only come down to 1.016
    • Based on the flavor profile being there in my first tasting I suspect that my original problems with getting fermented started were the root cause for the beer ending up like this - good strong start to fermentation is important to keep other stuff (that probably is always there) from making an impact.  My handling of the yeast was careless and this is the result - should have made a starter
    • Anyway, the beer isn't what I wanted but I think I could enjoy drinking it anyway (somehow feel a bit better about the extra flavor component now that I'm aware of what it is).  I'll give the beer a couple more week maybe to see if it drops further.  I believe I'll be bottling it instead of kegging unfortunately
  • 9/25/20 - Thought about this a bit more and have decided to cold crash and fine the beer and then keg as originally planned.  I'll dry hop it as well.  Moved it to the chest freezer to spend a few days at 36 F
  • 9.27/20 - Added about half a tsp of gelatin dissolved in hot water
  • 9/29/20 - Transferred to a keg with 2 oz of dry hops.  I purged the keg with CO2 before filling to try to help preserve the beer better
  • 10/7/20
    • I've been keeping this keg between 40 and 45 F and force carbonating at 12 PSI.  It has started to carb up for me.  
    • After further consideration of the "odd" flavor I'm starting to think that the homegrown hops were the major component.  When I rub the hops between two hands they have a lovely cascade aroma but just the bag has the same kind of odd smell I get from the beer.  As I've come to grips with the smell I've started to warm to it a bit.  I think I'll enjoy the beer
    • I forgot to measure an official FG when I transferred to the keg.  Took one today and found it stopped at 1.016.  So, this is a pretty easy drinking beer at 3.6%
  • 10/20/20 - Tasting Notes - A really nice sessionable keg beer.  I've had six pints of this on a brew day and was no worse for ware by the end.  This is exactly the kind of beer I was thinking I wanted to start making.  it is flavorful and complex in addition to drinkable.  I've been impressed by the hop character as it's aged - having the hops in the keg is a real help I think (as is being able to purge the keg of Oxygen)
  • 10/30/20 - The keg kicked today.  The last few pints were cloud and hap hop particulate matter in suspension but were still very tasty.